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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.